And How!
Monday, August 22, 2011
Trials and Tribs
Monday, August 1, 2011
Puppy Born, Not mine though. Sadface. But Moving On.
Monday, July 25, 2011
Interesting Tidbit: Listography
Monday, July 18, 2011
News! Update! Video Seminar!
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Thinking about the first week.
- Bring a crate and blanket to the breeders at pick-up. Socialize and settle the pup to your presence.
- On the way home NO radio, NO sudden stops, NO breaks/errands. Keep it simple and quiet while in the car. Drive straight home and keep the car cool.
- Once home give the pup time alone to get used to being separated from the other puppies. Keep the house quiet as any strange noises (outside of routine around the house jobs) may heighten pups stress level.
- Check to see if the pup needs to go potty. Wait 15 minutes for pup to do business. If the pup didn't potty recrate and try again in a few minutes. When pup does go celebrate like nobody's business.
- Inside work on training to sit and come. Play games once the pup does something right. After this session the pup may need to potty. Take it out. React as necessary.
- Keep feeding on the regular schedule issued by the breeder. After eating or drinking puppy needs to go potty.
- Puppy needs quiet time as well so make sure throughout the day the pup gets to spend time alone in his kennel while you are both in and out of the house. If you are in the house try putting the pup in another room for a few minutes. Toss in a few Kong toys for puppy to be occupied.
- Repeat the potty, play, rest, and feeding schedule.
- Puppy gets to go to bed at 8pm but must get up for potty before 11pm so that the pup can settle for the night as much as possible.
- Minimize contact to only those keywords you have decided upon, use both body and eye contact to help puppy understand you. (Note: Keywords found below
- Socialization begins inside the parameters of the Training Schedule (see below)
- Welcome friends and family to see the puppy but be sure to inform them that you are in-training and adjustment periods so as not to get the puppy over-excited. Teach these people how you have been play-training with the new pup in your own home. Use food as treat reward instead of high calorie alternatives.
- Enjoy your new dog and don't forget the work will be worth it in the long run of life.
Thursday, June 30, 2011
On the Homefront, Reading and Other Tales
Monday, June 20, 2011
News from the Brood
The weather is awful isn't it...hope it's not a sign of the summer.
Kylee and the rest of the clan are doing great. We just had a puppy come back to stay with us for 10 days while their family goes on vacation.
Kylee is showing signs of being pregnant already. Looks to be anyway. I'm pretty confident that she is. Over the next week or two I will certainly know for sure. We are always excited with the anticipation of a new litter, ie. how many she'll have, what they'll look like, etc.
Anyway, I will certainly let you know how things progress.
Take care,
Cherie
Reading Review #5: Paul Owens
Monday, June 13, 2011
The Newfoundland & Labrador Pet Expo 2011: An Adventure
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Reading Review #4: Bruce Fogle's Dog:The definitive guide for dog owners
Monday, May 30, 2011
Puppy News!
Thursday, May 26, 2011
Reading Review # 3: Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Breed Special by Dog Fancy Magazine
Friday, May 20, 2011
New Book! (Not a review)
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Shopping: PetSmart St. John's Grand Opening
Thursday, May 12, 2011
Confirmation
Thanks,
And I'll be in touch.
Cherie
Finalizing my place on the Puppy Waitlist.
Thank you for opening up your home and thanks to you and your family for being so helpful. It's easy to see how much you love your dogs and how great of a breeder you are. If you don't mind I'd like you to put me down on your list for the pups late this summer. It will be better for me to have time to prepare everything and since that was my original plan date I think I'd rather stick with it (Even though I love the pups you have now). I don't know what you'll need from me if anything right now. I'd love to hear about the progress and such (How Keily is doing etc.) I also think I'm partial to Rubies and Blenheim. As for sex, I am not particular though males are generally what I've owned in the past. I'm sure the girls will be excited to know that I'll be back.
Take care,
Melissa
Wednesday, May 11, 2011
Meet the Parents
Thursday, April 28, 2011
Reading Review #2: Dr. Ian Dunbar's Before & After
- Dunbar goes into depth about how to choose your dog (Mix breed or Pure? Spaniel or Retriever?). He then talks about when you should bring the puppy into your home (note: NEVER bring a puppy into a home at holidays or other celebratory times).
- Dr. Dunbar is a big promoter of adopting a dog from the shelter. This is very aimiable because I believe that adopting dogs who need homes is very important, especially in North America. I plan on adopting greyhounds in the future when I own a home that has a fenced yard.
- Selecting a good breeder is one of the ways you can prevent the onset of Puppy Mills around your area. With the addition of the Pet Shop to our materialistic culture we have created a vortex of bad news bears by not supporting local breeders and supporting the quick and cheap puppy mill version of already sick dogs.
- Dr. Dunbar also includes a small shopping list of things you'll need in preparation for your puppy (He believes in training a dog to eat from Kong stuff toys rather than from food bowls which is quite interesting and definitely worth a try).
- Dr. Dunbar talks about going to the breeder to see the puppies after the first set of immunizations (usually a couple of weeks after the eyes open -at the 1 month stage). All breeders should welcome you in their home for viewing provided you will not provide any risks to the animals.
- When going to the breeders to choose a puppy you should be able to comfortably handle the pup in all of the sensitive spaces (bum, underleg, belly, genitals, mouth and teeth, ears).
- Some people have been popularizing Alpha rollovers to test dominance in a dog (it is not recommended by the author)
- It's important to test the animals sensitivity to sound as a pup should be surrounded by sounds in the breeder's home (pots banging, cupboards or doors slamming, people being loud, etc. )
- A pup should know basic manners when coming from the breeder to your home. It should already know how to sit, lie down, and possibly roll over (though I think this is one of the hardest things a dog can learn, it's not natural for a dog to want to roll over to its backside).
- The final thing is to consider your preference in the litter. Do you like the obnoxious know it all pup or do you prefer a pup who is waiting its turn to see you?
- This is one of the most intensive chapters. I personally spent a lot of time reading this chapter to absorb all of the information. Dunbar actually teaches what you should work on with your puppy during the first week in your home. Then he outlines chew-toy training and errorless housetraining.
- What to do when you aren't home. This is a big deal for me as I hate the idea of leaving a pup during the day for the first couple of weeks. Think about it for a moment- a pup spends all of his time with his litter mates until you take him/her away to a quite lonely place where you're bored and tired of having no fun- it doesn't sound like its much good to me. But we are often very busy people so I think that Dunbar has some very useful tips about what to do while you are away.
- What to do when you're home. Just because you're home doesn't mean you should be spending all of your time occupying a puppy. They need to learn that quite time happens when you're in the house as well as when you are gone.
- The differences between short and long term confinement.
- Pitfalls and training tips to make sure your puppy doesn't make piddles on your floor into adulthood.
- Chew-toys are a godsend according to this expert. I actually like the idea of using chew-toys to feed your dog. My previous family pet had a Kong toy and it went over well. So allowing your dog to hunt, gather, and dig out for food is much better than letting him/her run back and forth to a bowl.
- Theres so much other stuff in this chapter that I can't possibly talk about it all but I'll list some of the things I left out: Kong stuffing 101, Settle down and Shush, Home Alone, Separation Anxiety, When leaving home, When returning home, Jekyll & Hide Behaviours, Wonderful Weekends...worrysome weekdays, what to do at nighttime, sit etc. and Misbehaviour.
- Dr. D (as I shall now call him) insists laying on the heavy for socialization with people. In fact, he has a rule, 3 people a day must meet your puppy (100 people by 4 months of age). That's a lot of people but once you read the chapter it makes a lot of sense.
- Each person that meets your pup should get him/her to sit, lie down, and roll over before playing or petting the pup.
- As many children and/or men as possible should meet your dog in this training stage. This teaches your puppy to like and respect people.
- Positive training methods are of utmost importance to Dr. D. They should be given appropriately and in a timely manner. Actually, according to Dr. D your dog should be only hand or chew-toy fed until the pup is fully trained (mostly never).
- Once the pup is comfortable with sitting, laying down, and rolling over guests should be training the dog by handling them and playing puppy games. Teaching bite inhibition and positive punishment practice.
- Socialization continuation throughout the dogs life is also discussed in a heavy way. The phrase "I ate my dog's homework" is used to undermine the human condition of making excuses for not continuing socialization and training through the lifespan.
- This is an important skill for all dogs to learn. Having soft gums is very good for playing with your pup and teaches them to never let themselves get out of control. Bite inhibition training is combined with the Sit and Shush to create a well minding dog.
- Dr. D also introduces the idea of puppy training classes in this chapter.
- The sixth deadline involves what to expect when your puppy starts going through adolescence. How to maintain all of the training you worked on through puppyhood. And how to continually keep socializing and training for the greater world. Distractions in the environment continually inflict your dog. Distracting your dog from training and generally maintaining a balanced condition.
- Introduction to training in the car, on a walk, in a dog park, recall, and emergency sit.
- How to play during training sessions, integrating training and lifestyles.
Sunday, April 17, 2011
Reading Review #1: Happy Dogs
Friday, April 15, 2011
Productive Products V.2.0.
Sunday, April 10, 2011
St. John's is Dog Friendly
The above video was of one of my four legged friends Kaede. She is owned by my friends Tak and Marcie. Kaede is a black labrador retriever mix who is about 19 months old. She was adopted in January of this year from the local pound.
Yesterday, it was one of those rare sunny days in St. John's. So earlier in the morning I had to take the chance to get out into the sun. We've been training Kaede since January and since we got her in her "teenage days" she sometimes has the tendency to get rambunctious. She is a very smart and beautiful dog however, giving me the opportunity to work on training techniques and seeing the struggles that can happen.
Adopting a dog was a wonderful choice for my friends who have lots of time to dedicate to helping Kaede re-learn how she should behave according to people. One of the things she's particularly struggling with in various environments is leash training. She likes to pull quite a bit and thus takes the lead. So we tried umbilical training yesterday and I'm not particularly pleased about how it turned out. I think maybe if it was a part of her everyday thing that she'd understand the idea of staying by the side. Yesterday, she got to learn that pulling means we stop.
The advantage of umbilical training is that she can't pull Marcie off of her feet as easily (who is very petite and often struggles with Kaede's pulling). I recommended her to train like this around the home as well so she can get used to it.
So we walked around the beautiful Quidi Vidi Lake yesterday and soaked up some sunshine. We started out on the South side of the pond and walked around to the dog park. This dog park is set up by the City of St. John's and offers a great place for dogs to play and socialize. It's fenced in with double gate entries on both sides. Marcie and Tak were unsure about the dog park and Kaede at first.
I suggested that a) try it with a lead on at first before you set her free, b) this lets the other dogs come welcome her and she meets them in a controlled manner. c) From the first meeting you can always be aware of how your dog is interacting with the others and if there is the potential of harm. If the park doesn't have the right kind of dogs and owners at the time then you can easily walk out of the park in a controlled manner.
Tak and Marcie decided that it felt okay and set Kaede free. She had a blast obviously. After the dog park adventure Kaede responded much better to walking in the Heel position. It makes sense to get all of the excited energy out before training. Not as a puppy of course but she is old enough to handle it.
I hope to bring my dog to this spot when I get him/her as this will provide great training and socialization ground. Next to the fenced dog park there is a big field that would serve well for recall training. I'm excited about training and Kaede is a very good example of how patience and time can provide the results you want.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Productive Products
So, today I bought a dog bed. I have been trying not to buy everything that I need for the future puppy. It's hard. I'll blame the consumerist culture for right now but not my ever impending excitement towards a new member of the family.